Newport Vintage Books

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What type of paper do you use for your remastered dustjackets?:

After comparing many different options, we chose high grade 24 lbs & 28 lbs weight papers, 96 brightness with ultra smooth surface & high opacity.  From our experience, this paper most closely reflects the weight & feel of the paper used during the 1920s & 30s.  Please note that there was variation by publisher & printers.  Prior to the 1920s, most jacket covers were uncoated.  However, beginning in the early 1920s, jackets began to be printed with a light clear coating [not a film (which could/would eventually peel off)].  Also, it is very important to keep in mind that we use chlorine free paper to ensure multi-generation life and prevent any aging & oxidation from environmental exposure.



What is the difference between laser and inkjet papers?:

Please remember that all our dustjackets are created on paper specially manufactured for industrial laser printers and thermal color copiers.   Inkjet printers have different considerations since static charge is used to apply the toner.   After comparative testing, we have chosen Xerox Digital Color Expressions for its superior color quality.  Importantly, this paper is acid-free and chlorine-free to ensure long-life archival preservation and color retention.  This is a very expensive paper though [factored into our jacket pricing] typically costing $15 per ream vs. $2/$3 per ream of typical office paper -- essentially 5 to 7 times the cost of typical copy paper.


What type of dustjacket covers/protectors do you recommend?:

We use Brodart Just a Fold III jacket covers. These are the only jacket covers we use & the only ones offered on our website -- as they are the only ones that are approved for their archival quality [pH neutral polyester & paper backing] by the Library of Congress.


How do I preserve my dustjackets?:

The first step should always be to place a dustjacket inside an archival jacket protector.  Keep in mind, archival is the key.  Archival jackets use non-reactive materials including non-yellowing, chlorine-free polyester, as well as pH neutral, acid-free paper.


The second step is to keep the dustjackets away from direct sunlight, preferably away from any sunlight or bright lights at all.  Keep in mind that over time colors will fade if they are exposed to light.  Reds & oranges [590 to 650 nm] are the first to fade as they are the most photosensitive while blues & violets [400 to 475 nm] are the least photosensitive, relatively speaking.  Think of the rainbow, colors at the left of the spectrum [longest wavelength] are the most photosensitive [first to fade], while colors at the right of the spectrum [shortest wavelength] will fade more slowly.


For rare documents, the National Archives uses special lighting designed by NoUVIR which uses cold fiber optic technology to remove all ultraviolet and infrared light.  For historic, rare documents such as the US Constitution and Declaration of Independence, an additional dichroic filter is used to filter out all blue light below 500 nm.


Does light really damage my rare books and dustjackets?:

The Illuminating Engineering Society recommends the use of only visible light with no UV and no IR. If it is a work of art, artifact or rare book, the light should have no ultraviolet or infrared content, that is, it should be UV and heat free.  Incandescent lights have 1/2% to 1%UV and emit 94% heat.  Fluorescent lights have 8% UV, and emit 70% heat.  For every 10 in temperature, the life of an artifact is cut in half.  Just 10 doubles photochemical damage and 20 accelerates damage 4 times. 30 doubles again to 16 times damage or only 8% of original life.  Baking any artifact is bad.  Because UV filters age and fade, even UV shielded fluorescents will cause damage within 10 years, compared to incandescent lights which cause visible fading within 5 years. What are your lights doing?





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Last Revision June 08, 2010 10:42 PM