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What
type of
paper do
you use
for your
remastered
dustjackets?: |
After
comparing
many
different
options,
we chose
high grade
24 lbs &
28 lbs
weight
papers, 96
brightness
with
ultra smooth
surface &
high
opacity.
From our
experience,
this paper
most
closely
reflects
the weight
& feel of
the paper
used
during the
1920s &
30s.
Please
note that
there was
variation
by
publisher
&
printers.
Prior to
the 1920s,
most
jacket
covers
were
uncoated.
However,
beginning
in the
early
1920s,
jackets
began to
be printed
with a
light
clear
coating
[not a
film
(which
could/would
eventually
peel
off)].
Also, it
is very
important
to keep in
mind that
we use
chlorine
free paper
to ensure
multi-generation
life and
prevent
any aging
&
oxidation
from
environmental
exposure.
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What is
the
difference
between
laser and
inkjet
papers?: |
Please
remember
that all
our
dustjackets
are
created on
paper
specially
manufactured
for
industrial
laser
printers
and
thermal
color
copiers.
Inkjet
printers
have
different
considerations
since
static
charge is
used to
apply the
toner.
After
comparative
testing,
we have
chosen
Xerox
Digital
Color
Expressions
for its
superior
color
quality.
Importantly,
this paper
is
acid-free
and
chlorine-free
to ensure
long-life
archival
preservation
and color
retention.
This is a
very
expensive
paper
though
[factored
into our
jacket
pricing]
typically
costing
$15 per
ream vs.
$2/$3 per
ream of
typical
office
paper --
essentially
5 to 7
times the
cost of
typical
copy
paper. |
What type
of
dustjacket
covers/protectors
do you
recommend?: |
We use
Brodart
Just a
Fold III
jacket
covers.
These are
the only
jacket
covers we
use & the
only ones
offered on
our
website --
as they
are the
only ones
that are
approved
for their
archival
quality
[pH
neutral
polyester
& paper
backing]
by the
Library of
Congress. |
How do I
preserve
my
dustjackets?: |
The first
step
should
always be
to place a
dustjacket
inside an
archival
jacket
protector.
Keep in
mind,
archival
is the
key.
Archival
jackets
use
non-reactive
materials
including
non-yellowing,
chlorine-free
polyester,
as well as
pH
neutral,
acid-free
paper.
The second
step is to
keep the
dustjackets
away from
direct
sunlight,
preferably
away from
any
sunlight
or bright
lights at
all.
Keep in
mind that
over time
colors
will fade
if they
are
exposed to
light.
Reds &
oranges
[590 to
650 nm]
are the
first to
fade as
they are
the most
photosensitive
while
blues &
violets
[400 to
475 nm]
are the
least
photosensitive,
relatively
speaking.
Think of
the
rainbow,
colors at
the left
of the
spectrum
[longest
wavelength]
are the
most
photosensitive
[first to
fade],
while
colors at
the right
of the
spectrum
[shortest
wavelength]
will fade
more
slowly.
For rare
documents,
the
National
Archives
uses
special
lighting
designed
by NoUVIR
which uses
cold fiber
optic
technology
to remove
all
ultraviolet
and
infrared
light.
For
historic,
rare
documents
such as
the US
Constitution
and
Declaration
of
Independence,
an
additional
dichroic
filter is
used to
filter out
all blue
light
below 500
nm. |
Does light
really
damage my
rare books
and
dustjackets?: |
The
Illuminating
Engineering
Society
recommends
the use of
only
visible
light with
no UV and
no IR. If
it is a
work of
art,
artifact
or rare
book, the
light
should
have no
ultraviolet
or
infrared
content,
that is,
it should
be UV and
heat free.
Incandescent
lights
have 1/2%
to 1%UV
and emit
94% heat.
Fluorescent
lights
have 8%
UV, and
emit 70%
heat.
For every
10°
in
temperature,
the life
of an
artifact
is cut in
half.
Just 10°
doubles
photochemical
damage and
20°
accelerates
damage 4
times. 30°
doubles
again to
16 times
damage or
only 8% of
original
life.
Baking any
artifact
is bad.
Because UV
filters
age and
fade, even
UV
shielded
fluorescents
will cause
damage
within 10
years,
compared
to
incandescent
lights
which
cause
visible
fading
within 5
years.
What are
your
lights
doing? |
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